Kakadu
15th August 2020
Drove on up to Kakadu National Park and as recommended ventured into Gonlom Falls.
It is around 50 K’s of corrugated and dusty dirt road. The camp ground has good amenities and pretty remote.
There is a nice short walk through some rain forest to another breath taking dip pool. It has a huge waterfall and cliffs around it, and a nice little beach to enter the water. Unfortunately due to the drought there is hardly any water coming down, but it must look magnificent when there is a reasonable flow.
These falls are even better then Edith Falls and of course I had a few more swims.
Another camper that has been here for a week told me (whilst we were swimming) that yesterday they had seen a 2.5 meter crock in the water. (thanks for that).
That night in the camp it was the hottest I have struck it yet, 36* at 7pm. I was sitting outside having a couple of bourbons and trying or hoping to catch some sort of a breeze so I could breath, and you guessed it. Three campers lit campfires. What is wrong with these people up here!
I took a photo of one and another the next morning just to show you the conditions up here.
You would get shot for doing that back in NSW, not to mention being a complete idiot. It’s as dry as Hell up here and as you see, plenty of dry grass. Plus there is only the one road in so??? I just don’t get it. Next time I’m going to ask them WHY? The Parks OK it too, so go figure.
While I was sitting in my camp chair catching heat waves from the fires (leave it be Doug. Sorry Wilson) I heard a hell of a roar (and I mean a BIG Roar, and it kept up and coming closer and closer. BRRRRR! BRRRRR! BRRRRR!
I stood up and looked around as everyone else did with touches. Then out of the bush rushers this huge! buffalo and right past me still bellowing and into the camp. I rushed out to it and was intending to calm it as I was taught by Paul Hogan, but at the last minute decided nothing is going to calm that beast. It was huge, and cranky. It wasn't like the old and decrepit one that Paul did.
It didn’t do any damage, but was just very intent on going somewhere and letting everyone know. I think if someone or something was in it’s road it wasn’t going to go around it.
What a great experience, Kay would be upset to not have been there I’m sure.
Next morning I headed out and back over the 50K of corrugations to the main road where I inflated all my tires. That has been a fantastic purchase before I left, a Thumper twin cylinder compressor, deflator, inflator/gauge and extra long lead to reach all tires. I can pump them up just as fast as at a service station. I have taught a few people how to use the deflator as they are a bit tricky, but once you know, so great to use and quick. I came across one bloke a few weeks ago who was trying to use his deflator and unscrewed the wrong bit and was searching in the grass for the valve. I had to laugh. But I was able to supply him with a new one. I still can see him and I still have a laugh.
Having said all that, I am over dirt roads and swore (literally) that from now on, I’ll be boring and stick to the sealed roads. I'm sure I heard the poor old van sigh with relief too.
There wasn’t much to see other than dry bush along the main road through Kakadu. No doubt you'd see nice things if you get off the road, but I noticed they were dirt so drove on bye (the new me). And I can’t wait to give both van and car a big clean up, they have been covered with dust for months.
I arrived at Jabaru mid afternoon, not much to see so I had a saunter out to the Golf Club. The sign painted a perfect picture of lovely green fairways. But obliviously that was when conditions were good, not so now. But it still looked inviting but it was just too hot, (poor Pebbles. Shut up Wilson).
But I’m not out of here yet.
I went on up North to Cahills Crossing. I have been told by a number of people to go there, but they all advised to check what time high tide is first.
So glad I came here, this is the best spot as far as what I’ve seen of Kakadu. The scenery here is so amazing, especially the rock formations (check them out). They seem so prehistoric and looks as though someone has stacked them so.
The main attraction up here is Cahills Crossing, (although I think that’s now debatable). There is a crossing across the Alligator River and when the high tide comes in all the crocks gather to feast on the fish it brings. All self explanatory in the photos.
There are vehicles passing through here all the time and a lot of mothers nearly fainted when a man drove through with the little boys hanging out the windows (see pic).
I took several shots of just the river to show you the tide. It was a pretty big one today, 5 mts. Or so the tide chart says. I don’t know how that’s measured but it sure didn’t look 5 mts. to me. Apparently the lower the tide the more action you’ll see.
The first shot of the tide you can see it coming around the corner, and then the shots are somewhere around 10-15 min. apart. The whole thing lasted less than an hour, after which your pretty much crocked out.
You’ll also notice people fishing and some kids standing near the water, freaked some the oldies out that did. ( Oldies! Wilson recons' they're younger than me)
Last night I walked up to the lookout on this bloody big rock and watched the sunset with a heap of other campers. That was really amazing, such a great view over the wetlands and surrounding area. I was a bit late getting there so I decided to stay another night and do it again tomorrow, besides there is a fair bit more I want to explore.
When I arrived back at my camp I had another 'moment'. I hadn't checked out the layout of the camp area previously, it's pretty well completely tree covered and I wasn't sure about the road layout and it's one way.
So it was dark when I returned and I mean completely dark (no moon at all).
Drove around the block and came back to the entrance. That's funny I thought, I missed my camp, oh well I'll have to look more carefully.
Drove around again, came back to the entrance again, bloody hell.
After the forth time I parked my car just off the road in the trees and walked back, searching in all the little nock and crannies using the torch in my phone. until I came back to the bloody entrance again.
It took me a fair bit but I finally found my van, hallelujah!
Went back to get the car, couldn't find my car!
I had to go back to the van and get my torch and that even took a bit to find it again. (both the van and car). When I finally got it all together. I was outside the van only two meters away and couldn't see the van with the torch off. It was that dark, no wonder I had trouble.
The next day I returned to the lookout and also did the walk around the area and checked out all the Aboriginal art works. There were a lot of them and I took a lot of shots for you but only left a few to show you. There is one interesting one where they believe some spirit painted it. It's pretty abstract but more amazing is that it's on the direct overhang about 20 feet above you. Spooky.
Up on the lookout again and I was able to capture that sunset just perfect, and enjoyed a nice beer while taking it all in. Ahh, the serenity.
The next day Wilson and I headed off, but not before stopping at Mamukala Wetlands and snapping a few last shots before hightailing it to Darwin.
Singing:
"Santa never made it into Darwin. The big wind came and blew the town away"........
Ha Hooooooooooooooooooooooooooo.
